Adjusting the Bed Parallel to the Main Rod

 

It is important that the BED is exactly parallel to the MAIN ROD of the gouger.  If the bed is not parallel, the gouge curve will actually be cut diagonally into the piece of cane.  This results in many complications; mainly, the side thickness of the gouge will not be symmetrical in the shaped piece of cane. 

In the very unlikely event that the bed's alignment ever needs to be adjusted, you will find this procedure much easier than with older machines.  This bed is pinned on the left side and rotates around that fixed position.  You will notice that there are ADJUSTMENT SCREWS on the base behind the bed only on the right side.  The brass screw is threaded into the bed and the zinc screw is threaded into the adjustment bar attached to the bed.  The brass screw PULLS the bed and the zinc screw PUSHES the bed.  The bed is locked under the base as in other machines. 

 

Check the four corners of the gouged piece of cane.  If they differ from one another as below, you will need to adjust the bed alignment to the rod. 

You will notice that the only measurement that gets modified by moving these set screws is the one at position A above.  The position B is located at the point of the bed that is pinned.  This might sound complicated, but you will see how easy it is if you ever need to make this adjustment.  In older machines, both sides of the bed are loose and free floating when the bed is unlocked.  This creates too many variables to deal with in a controlled fashion.  We want "Limited Degrees of Freedom" as is illustrated in the Freshman Class section of the Gouger University.  With only one side of the BED free to move during this adjustment, the variables are in your favor.

 

If A is THINNER than B, and is consistently so:

  1. Locate the BED ALIGNMENT SCREWS and tighten both of the screws so that the gently touch the bed.  The screws are now engaged to move the bed. 

  2. First back off the SILVER PUSH SCREW first by about 40-45 degrees or about 5 minutes on the face of a clock. 

  3. Loosen the bed lock screws under the base.

  4. Tighten the BRASS PULL SCREW to take up the slack so that the bed is now touching the zinc screw’s new position.

  5. Retighten the base lock screws

  6. Gouge cane to check your changes and repeat if necessary.

If A is THICKER than B, and is consistently so:

  1. Locate the BED ALIGNMENT SCREWS and tighten both of the screws so that the gently touch the bed.  The screws are now engaged to move the bed.

  2. First loosen the BRASS PULL SCREW by about 40-45 degrees or about 5 minutes on the face of a clock.

  3. Loosen the bed lock screws under the base

  4. Tighten the SILVER PUSH SCREW to take up the slack between the brass screw and the adjustment bar.

  5. Retighten the base lock screws

  6. Gouge cane to check your changes and repeat if necessary.

BENDING THE CANE OVER YOUR FINGER

If the BED and MAIN ROD are parallel, a piece of gouged cane, when slightly bent over your finger with the gouge side facing down, should fold with the creases opposing one another.  If the creases are displaced, there is a good chance there is still a problem with the bed alignment.  We are assuming the blade is cutting properly.  You should recheck the procedure above.

It is possible to get some indication about the STRENGTH of the sides of the gouge curve from this test as well.  If the sides tend to crease too readily, the sides are most likely too weak or too thin.  If the sides are resistant to creasing, there is a chance that the sides are too strong or too thick.  This cane be adjusted by the GOUGE SIDE THICKNESS ADJUST SCREW.  One note of caution, the hardness of the cane is sometimes a factor here.  When making this test, it is wise to use cane that you would consider good quality.

Contact Information

Opus1 Oboe Gouger

Mailing Address:

    178 Oakbrook Drive

    Advance, North Carolina   27006

Phone:

    412-491-5603

CONTACT ME THROUGH EMAIL